Primitivo Stage 8: Lugo to O Hospital (nirvana)

We had a good rest day in Lugo. The wall was a little underwhelming – high, wide, significant and a little hard to appreciate the context as city was quite close on both sides. What was surprising was how how much city a 2 km circumference wall could enclose. Good day to rest as the weather was dodgy. 

The cathedral was impressive and provided a one stop opportunity to see major church building styles from 1000 to 1850 in one building – with additions. 

Started walk today in fog from Lugo which made for cool start to long day – of almost 36 km. Although not much elevation it was a pretty low energy day for both of us. Every hill hurt.

The fog lifted around 1100 to a pleasant sunny day. Galicia is relentlessly pleasant with rolling green hills. The Irish contingent thought how much it resembles home. Almost no services today as we walked through almost no towns. The farms are bigger and prosperous here and pilgrim care not seen as much of economic opportunity.  

We were having a Radler and a bocadillo at 28km mark with two hours left to go when an Audi pulled up and discharged two very glamorous pilgrims with no dust or wear and tear. The driver fussed over their gear and set them off walking 5km to their country inn where he rushed ahead to prepare their rooms. We were a little low energy so we greeted this with a certain amount of resentment and derision. Sure it’s an individual journey nlh blah blah no wrong way blah blah – but give me a break. 

To work through our resentment we created a sympathetic- and highly unlikely- back story that justified this sort of behaviour. We got back to minding our own business. How they take their journey does not diminish or improve our journey. 

Long day ended at amazing rural inn run by an English couple Casa Camino. Everything got better in a hurry.  Hugely hospitable people with all mod cons.  Most comfortable bed in all of Spain. Plied us with too much food and booze. 


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