Primitivo Stage 5: Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada or death to the matrimonial pillow

We are not sure that they are called matrimonial pillows but they are often on the beds they call matrimonial (about 2/3 size of a queen). It is an evil device that runs full width of the bed that the happy couple get to wrestle for control of throughout the night. Individual pillows on large beds are cheered when discovered in our rooms. Nobody really wins with these diabolical devices. When I rule Spain they will be outlawed and all burned by decree. We just don’t much like them. 

So we got up a bit slowly this morning after fighting to a draw over the pillow all night. There was breakfast in the hotel with multiple coffees – but not quite enough. Walked out into a much cooler and windier day. Rain overnight had reduced the humidity to a more comfortable level. Weather very variable so never felt “just right” all day and clothes were put on and off, zippers and hoods up and down, buffs adjusted etc continuously. 

The trail had a long climb up O Acebo to a ridge peppered with windmills that provided a view of all the windmills that were scattered on all the high points in every direction. We also noted the wind that howled and proved that these windmill placements were not random. Walking not very hard otherwise although the advice to stay to the road was heard the geographic reference was not uploaded and was discovered with our shoes. 

We passed from Asturia to Galicia at top of O Acebo. Both sides of border look like extracts from Martha Stewart’s “3000 things you can make from slate” book. 

Strava link

The bars were few but well spaced. The fifth day walking in a row made us feel pretty worn out but not sore. The hotel is pretty basic but they made a nice charcuterie plate and a hearty dinner. 

Diana has made friends with all the dogs in O Fonsagrada and they run up to get attention. Nice lift after tiring day. 


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