Primitivo Stage 2: Salas to Campeillo 

We were in Salas last night and really enjoyed this little town. We had dinner with a German engineer from Hanover named Olaf – walking the second half of his Norte/Primitivo combo that he started last year. He is an experienced hiker having walked a 600 km trail from Oslo to  Trondheim and several long walks in northern England. He was a bit lonely as he speaks little Spanish,French or Italian and all he had encountered in his first 3 days were people who only spoke those languages. 

We had met him early during the day and bumped into him throughout the day and ended up in same hotel. He was good company and enjoyed the opportunity to talk – even in his second language. 

We set out from Salas around 0730 after a breakfast at Cafe Luciania – where Luciania packed us a little snack unsolicited- very nice gesture that helped with long day of walking. 

Strava link
We walked about 33 km with about 1000m of gain. It was cool and misty to start and never got too warm. Walking was pretty easy and trail was mostly dirt, gravel and a bit of mud. Mud can be a problem but tee are three days without rain so things were trending to dryer rather than wetter. Long 5 km steady climb out of Salas and then we walked along a ridge on one side of a green valley below a endless line up of wind turbines. Not hard walking day. Tomorrow will be. 

Arrived at Casa Herminia – a budding empire of involved in housing, feeding, and supplying pilgrims – really lovely is spot. Apparently her bid to vertically integrate pilgrim care is viewed dimly by her countrymen – at the rate she is growing she may end up running the country. 

Had dinner with 4 other pilgrims – a German civil servant, a French doctor and an Italian couple from Milan. It was a good mix as not enough of one language group to partner off. Dinner was absurdly good Asturian stew (potatoes, greens, beans, and meat), chicken soup, salad and braised oxtail. This place had a dormitory as well as a number of hotel rooms so gave us first communal dinner with other pilgrims. Nice experience. 

We have 27 km big climbing day tomorrow on “Hospitales Route”. Weather looks great and we have stocked up with food as we will be about 6 hours between towns through middle of day. 


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