Primitivo Stage 1: Grado to Salas

Back to walking today after a couple of days rest in Oviedo. Oviedo rest disturbed by awful drain stink in otherwise great apartment. Sadly any amount of drain stink ruins an apartment. First poor customer service event of our trip as the reception clerk could not find her way to seeing drain stink as a problem within her purview. We needed the laundry bad enough to live with it – range hood vent on full blast for 2 days and all windows open to Oviedo’s famous (ish) Cider Alley. 

When you are living on Sidra Blvd there is not a lot of quiet. I think there are about 10 places we have visited so far where we would rather have spent a rest day than Oviedo. It’s probably unfair to compare. There was a impressive cathedral with lots of relics in the holy chamber – towel used to clean the body after crucifixion, part of John the Baptist’s forehead etc etc. but we were not enchanted. 

We took the bus out of Oviedo to Grado this morning to avoid a half day of urban sprawl.  We missed out stop and bus driver beckoned us back on and drove us back 3 blocks to meet the Camino route. 

It was a fabulous day of walking. The weather was perfect and This part of Asturia is really lovely. Not enough green in a typical colour palette to accommodate the rolling hills and farmland. 

Strava link

Di was having some stomach trouble so we kept the pace slow with lots of breaks and she was a trooper and we finished up a shortish day of walking in Salas around 1600. Quaffed a can each of Radler (our official drink of the Camino- German invention of beer and lemon soda available in cans and on tap). Hotel is very rustic with a central courtyard and all rooms surround and a part of a castle attached. Very Roman sort of set up. 

The local people are very friendly along this route. The route today was away from major motorways and had lots of dirt track and dedicated trail. About 700 meters of climbing but much of it early in day when it is easier not to resent. Much of day was in sight of the construction of a major new highway with huge bridges, tunnels, and overpasses. Work has resumed  after what appears a few years of being stopped – although the intensity of the work is pretty slight compared to the size of the task. 

Will post pictures when I have Wifi. 

The route, so far, has few pilgrims but is pretty well signed. We are hoping that we get 10 more days like today. 


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